Many sources out there would have people believe that anyone can install Pebble Tile, well that is true...to a point. I have been in the tile installation business for over ten years and I've taken the time to compile the more technical information one will need to do-it-yourself and to achieve not only a beautiful, but long lasting pebble tile installation.

The most popular and I might add, the easiest application of any tile, is on the kitchen backsplash. Now most backsplashes have only texture and paint on them, this is a suitable surface for tile application because this a low to medium moisture area. However, if one does a considerable amount of cooking it is a good idea to cut out the dry wall above the stove area and replace it with a piece of inexpensive cement board, that can be found at many lumber yards and/or home furnishing stores. Use 1 1/2" all purpose screws for the cement board, they do make special screws for this material but they are not necessary.

With pebble tile you can use an organic type I mastic or what I like to use is manufactured by Tec called 3N1. It comes in a 30 lb. bag which is enough material to do even the largest backsplash (read the manufacturers instructions completely before beginning). You will also need a 3/16 x 3/16 square notch trowel to apply whatever adhesive you decide to go with. You'll want to start by taking off all the faceplates on the outlets and light switches, then you will need to unscrew the two placement screws that hold in each outlet and switch; depending on how long those placement screws are you may need to get some longer ones once the tile is on. It's also a good idea to use electric tape around the outlets and switches if they don't already have some on them.

The main concern on any backsplash is how to cap off an open end of a backsplash, that is the side of your backsplash that does not end at a wall. This is a matter of preference, if you want to end it with the natural look of the pebble that's fine, or perhaps a piece of coordinating tile can be found to come straight down the edge of the overhead cabinets. I would encourage everyone who is debating on whether or not to go up the sides of your kitchen window to do so, you won't regret the extra time.

The great thing about pebble tile is you can start your installation anywhere. You don't have to worry about centering tile with your sink, window, stove etc. I like to start at the open end and work my way to the corner. However, if your trying to get a straight line on the open end then you will want to place your first sheet about 4-6 inches away from the open end so you can place individual stones in there to achieve the straightest line possible.

When it comes to choosing a grout color people can get a little nervous, why I don't know. Choosing grout color is very difficult...to get wrong. I would just avoid getting a color that blends with the pebble to the point where it is not distinguishable at a distance. You want contrast but I wouldn't go black grout with white pebbles. Keep in mind there are different types of grout out there, SANDED polymer modified grout is the best way to go. UNsanded grout is UNacceptable! Again be sure to follow the manufactures Instructions. Do not fill in the space between the countertop and the pebble with grout. The same goes for around the window trim and alongside any wood or metal. The grout will crack out and you will not be happy. The morning after the grout is applied you will use the color matched tube of 100% silicon to fill in between the countertop, window trim, metal and wood. Be sure that you get 100% silicone and not the Siliconized acrylic stuff.

If all goes well you are probably looking at about 3-5 calender days (4hrs a day) depending on the size of your Pebble Tile Backsplash. In the end you will have a stunning and functional piece of art hanging in your kitchen for all time.